top of page

Aircooled Hut UK Service Information

So you have your new engine and want to ensure its lasts a long time? 


DO NOT Ignore this! it is stated in the warranty terms/conditions and PROOF will be required in case of a Warranty claim. 

First thing is fill with a suitable oil! DO NOT FORGET THIS STEP! 

There are many brands of oil good for classic cars and air cooled vehicles, a selection of quality oils are listed below for air cooled engines.  

The Oil should be one designed for flat tappet engine, with a high zinc content.  There are plenty of classic oils available that also contain zinc (ZDDP) but many dont state how much so please be wary when choosing. It must have the all important ZDDP additive which will save your camshaft from a very early cam failure!

There are plenty of web pages giving full information on this.

Whatever you choose remember Volkswagen recommended a straight 30w oil. Although this is an old style oil and there are better oils about now, it still does the job fine for stock engines.

Don't be tempted to use a 20w 50 oil as the thicker oil has a tendency to blow oil seals when started from cold.

Morris Golden film sae 30.

Driven Racing Oil HR5 10W40 High Zinc Engine Oil

Valvoline VR1 10W-30 

Halso Stroker Oil - 10w40 Semi-synthetic Motor Oil, with even higher ZDDP content.

Short blocks and long blocks:     Steps    1-7

Turn key engines:    Steps    3-7

1/ Fill with oil:

Fill with oil to just below the max fill line and allow engine to turn over without a spark (remove centre distributor lead will do the trick)  it should pretty quickly get oil pressure and your dash light will go out. if it doesn't you may need to prime any external oil filter or cooler you have.

2/ Oil pressure:

Once you have oil pressure re-fit the distributor lead and you can allow it to fire up. Run it for a short time listening carefully for anything strange. if you hear something that's not normal, turn off and investigate!

3/ Listen:

If all sounds ok and no oil leaks to worry about carry on. (If you hear something worrying or oil leaking abort the run)

Once running for the first time it required the camshaft and cam followers to be bedded in.  to do this you run it for 10 minutes alternating between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm. This gets heat into the cam and followers while splashing oil onto them.  Stop after 10 minutes and allow to cool for an hour or two. 

Repeat this process again and that's the Cam burn in process complete.  (2 x 10 minute runs)


if all is fine you can then drain oil and re-fill to full line. leave over night to ensure completely cold and check/set valve clearances. Check/set points, timing. 

4/ 100 miles:

Drive steady for 100 miles, then change the oil and check valve clearances again. 

5/  500 miles:

Then drive another 500 miles, then change the oil and check valve clearances again. Check/set points, timing. 

6/ Usual servicing:

Now you can change the oil and check valve clearances at your usual intervals, remembering to check/set points, timing. clean/replace oil strainer or ext. oil filter. plus everything else thats needed with an old air-cooled vehicle.

7/  Drive steady and look after your engine and enjoy a long engine life. ;)

Remember, these are old engines even if made with all new parts, they are nothing like a modern engine. They need regular servicing, let them warm up before driving, drive steady and they will last that bit longer.

I go to great lengths to build engines with no oil leaks at all but, sometimes there may be the odd drip that I cannot be  covered under warranty. I will always do what I can though to help.


Enjoy your new engine in your VW!  

Please leave a review on the reviews section on Google searches, or Facebook and let others know how you found the Air-cooled Hut service!  

Many thanks for your business & future business. 






bottom of page